 |
|
|
Sexy St. Barts
Text and photos by Rose Hartman
|
A magical setting, fabulous beaches,
fine food, and high style make St. Barts the perfect
escape.
Shaped like a soprano sax, St.
Barts covers only 9-1/2 square miles, yet is internationally
known among island connoisseurs as the prized jewel
of the French West Indies: a sleek, chic hideaway that
lies between Antigua and St. Thomas.
|
|
|
|
Typical beach, St. Barts
|
After a 10-minute flight from St. Martin,
a wispy little STOL aircraft makes a stomach-churning landing
on the island's postage-stamp airstrip.
Driving around in a rental jeep or
mini-moke, there is nothing anywhere to jolt one's aesthetic
sense. Everything from the seascape to the landscape is so
perfect, like the stage sets of a happy '50s movie.
|
|
In spite of an occasional British
invasion, a brief takeover by the Knights of Malta,
and a near-century of Swedish rule, St. Barts has remained
firm in its Frenchness throughout its history.
While English is widely spoken,
the island's specialness is definitely French. From
the early-morning fragrance of fresh croissants and
café au lait to duty-free boutiques full
of designer playclothes, from its incredible array of
three-star restaurants to its markets stocked with an
impeccable array of French cheeses, wines, mineral waters,
and chocolates, from the Gauloise-puffing motorbikers
revving around hairpin curves to the bronzed monokinied
beauties decorating its pristine beaches, St. Barts
is Gallic through and through - a pastel-colored slice
of serene Normandy, Brittany and the Riveria transplanted
to the turquoise waters of the Caribbean.
|
|
|
| |
|
The romantic streets of the harbour
town of Gustavia offer a mix of French, Colonial Creole, and
Swedish style. In addition to its cafés, art galleries,
wine shops, and designer boutiques, tiny St. Barts has room
for several fully equipped gyms, presumably for the use of
European princesses and the visiting models (Cindy Crawford
and Naomi Campbell) and movie stars (Uma Thurman, Brad Pitt,
Demi Moore, Harrison Ford) whose livelihoods depend on their
not missing a daily workout.
|
|
|
Outside of Gustavia, the island resembles
a Garden of Eden, with a profusion of poincianas, ginger flowers,
baby orchids and frangipani everywhere. On the eastern side
of the island, known as Grand Frond, one lone house - once
owned by Rudolph Nureyev - perches on the rocks at the ocean's
edge. At Lorient, local fishermen work as they always have.
|
Gustavia, capitol
of St. Barts |
|
|
The larger Grand Cul-de-Sac is a tourist
enclave of million-dollar villas. To find the last threads
of traditional life, visit the fishing village of Corossol
on the southwestern coast, where old St. Bartian women still
weave Panama hats and other handicrafts from latanier
palms. (There are no street numbers on the island; instead,
road signs point to a particular district).
Most of the hotels are small and atmospheric,
and among the most expensive in the Caribbean. Many people
return to the same inn or villa year after year. That's why
reservations for the most desirable properties should be made
a year in advance. Some favorites include the 40-room Christopher
Hotel with high-quality furnishings, the island's largest
swimming pool, and a full-service fitness center; overlooking
Gustavia harbor, the Hotel Carl Gustaf's red-tiled, gleaming
suites have huge decks, plunge pools, TVs, faxes, stereos,
and kitchens. The poolside bar is a must at sunset, and the
elegant open-air restaurant is one of the most spectacular
on the island.
|
|
|
Set on a remote hillside,
Le Toiny's dozen cottages, each with small pool, colonial-style
mahogany furniture including four-poster beds, modern kitchen,
and TV/VCR is a favorite jet-set haunt; there's a French restaurant
and a large communal pool as well. Located on St. Jean, one
of the island's better beaches, Filao Beach Hotel boasts 30
air-conditioned bungalows, perfumed gardens, large pool, windsurfing
and snorkeling.
|
Gustavia
harbor, St. Barts
|
| Nearby, Eden Rock sits on a craggy rock
jutting into the sea, a tropical country house highlighted by
eighteenth-century furniture and presided over by a parrot whose
party piece is a wolf whistle. Even if you don't stay in any
of its five rooms, book a table for a dinner of avocado-and-tuna
mousse, Veuve Clicquot, fish in ginger sauce, marbled chocolate
cake, and cognac. |
|
|
|
|
Text and photos copyright ©1998
by Rose Hartman, T/F (212) 242-2933
All rights reserved.
|
|
